CHARGING

CHECKLIST

GO THROUGH THE CHECKLIST BEFORE CHARGING!

1. Make sure the new belt is tight.

2. Check direction of water valve. The water valve should be connected to the hose going to the water pump.

3. When mounting your compressor and/or adjusting the belt use caution. Mount by using the centerline of the oil fill plug as your guide. The compressor can only be mounted in-between the 9 to 3 positions. Do not mount in-between the 4 to 8 positions. This can cause compressor failure.

4. Evacuate the system for a minimum of 30-45 minutes before charging. Longer if possible. This will remove moisture and reveal small leaks. Make sure the low-side reaches a minimum of 28”-30” of vacuum. Failure to evacuate the system will cause inadequate temps and premature component failure.

5. Do not add oil! All new compressors from Classic Auto Air contain a full system charge of oil

6. Do not charge system in liquid form. It will direct liquid refrigerant into the compressor piston chamber causing damage to compressor reed valves and/or pistons as well as potentially seizing the compressor. This will void the warranty.

7. This new system requires R134A refrigerant. It will require 1.5 lbs (24 oz). Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will not lead to cooler temps! No other refrigerant is advisable for our systems and will void the warranty if used.

8. This new compressor must be hand turned 15-20 revolutions after charging. Failure to do this may cause the reed valves to become damage. This damage is not covered by the warranty.

CHARGING

A licensed a/c technician should be utilized for these procedures to ensure that your new system will perform at its peak and that your compressor will not be damaged.

1. Your radiator/cooling system is an integral part of your new system. Please ensure that you have a 50/50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze. The heater coil must be purged (cycle heater control valve) to make sure no water (without antifreeze) is in the heater coil before you charge the a/c system.

2. Evacuate the system for a minimum of 45 minutes.

3. Your new compressor must be hand turned 15-20 revolutions before and after charging with liquid. Failure to do this may cause the reed valves to become damaged. This damage is not covered by warranty.

4. Your new system requires 24 oz. of R134a refrigerant.

5. Your new compressor comes charged with oil – no additional oil is needed.

6. Ensure that the new belt is tight.

7. Do not charge the system with liquid refrigerant.

CHARGING STATION PROCEDURES:

• Do not charge this system with the car running! Unlike the common procedures used for late model vehicles (that have variable-speed compressors), this system cannot be charged with the car running. This is important – failure to follow this warning will most likely result in damaging the compressor and voiding the warranty.

• Do not add oil! All new compressors from Classic Auto Air contain a full system charge of oil.

• Do not use more than 24 oz. of 134A refrigerant! 1.5 lbs. or 24 oz of R134A is what is required.

• Hand turn the compressor 15-20 times after charging! Failure to do this may cause the reed valves to become damaged and will not be covered by the warranty.

HAND CHARGING PROCEDURES:

• Do not add oil! All new compressors from Classic Auto Air contain a full system charge of oil.

• Do not use more than 24 oz. of 134A refrigerant! 1.5 lbs. or 24 oz of R134A is what is required.

• Hand turn the compressor 15-20 times after charging! Failure to do this may cause the reed valves to become damaged and will not be covered by the warranty.

• Do not shake, tilt or turn can upside down while charging! Failure to do this may cause the reed valves to become damaged and this damage is not covered by warranty. Refrigerant must come out the top of the can.

CAUTION

When mounting your compressor and/or adjusting the belt use caution. Mount by using the centerline of the oil fill plug as your guide. The compressor can only be mounted in between the 9 to 3 positions. Do not mount in between the 4-8 positions. This will cause compressor failure.

Do not tilt, shake or turn refrigerant can upside down. Do not use a charging station to install refrigerant while the engine is running. Doing so will direct liquid refrigerant into the compressor piston chamber causing damage to reed valves, and/or pistons, and/or other components, as well as potentially seizing the compressor. Allow a minimum of 30 minutes for liquid to “boil off.” You must hang turn the compressor hub (not the pulley) a minimum of 15 complete revolutions prior to starting the engine with the clutch engaged.

TEST CONDITIONS

These test conditions will simulate the affect of driving the vehicle and give the technician the three critical readings that they will need to diagnose any potential problems. After system has been fully charged and tested for basic operation:

1. Determine the temperature outside of the car.

2. Close all doors and windows on the vehicle.

3. Place shop fan directly in front of the condenser.

4. Connect gauges or service equipment to high/low charging ports.

5. Place blower fan switch on medium.

6. Run engine idle up to approximately 1500 rpm.

ACCEPTABLE PRESSURE RANGES

Readings are based on an ambient temperature of 90 degrees with an adequate air flow on the condenser.

  • 1. High side pressures: 150-275 PSI
  • 2. Low side pressures: 10-25 PSI (in steady state)

TYPICAL PROBLEMS

Below is a list of typical problems you may encounter when charging your system.

NOISY COMPRESSOR

A noisy compressor is generally caused by charging a compressor with liquid or overcharging. If they system is overcharged, both gauges will read abnormally high readings. This is causing a feedback pressure on the compressor causing it to rattle or shake from the increased cyclone head pressures. System must be evacuated and re-charged to exact specifications.

HEATER CONTROL VALVE INSTALLATION

Installing the heater control valve in the incorrect hose. Usually when this occurs the system will cool at idle then start to warm up when raising the motor RPM’s. The heater control valve is a directional valve; make sure the water flow is with the direction of the arrow. As the engine heats up that water transfers the heat to the coil, this overpowering the a/c coil. A leaking or faulty valve will have a more pronounced effect on the unit’s cooling ability. Installing the valve improperly (such as having the flow reversed) will also allow water to flow through, thus inhibiting cooling. Check for heat transfer bu disconnecting hoses from the system completely. By running down the road with the hoses looped back through the motor you climate the possibility of heat transfer to the unit.

EXTERNAL EVAPORATOR FREEZING

Freezing can occur both externally and internally on an evaporator core. External freeze up occurs when the coil cannot effectively displace the condensation on the outside fins and the water forms ice, it restricts the air flow that can pass through it, which gives the illusion of the air not functioning. The common cause of external freezing is the setting of the thermostat and presence of high humidity in the passenger compartment. All door and window seals should be checked in the event of constant freeze up. A thermostat is provided with all units to control the cycling of the compressor.

INTERNAL EVAPORATOR FREEZING

This occurs when there is too much moisture inside the system. The symptoms of internal freeze up often surface after extended highway driving. The volume of air stays constant but the temperature of the air gradually rises. When this freezing occurs the low side pressure will drop, eventually going into a vacuum. At this point, the system should be checked by a professional who will evacuate the system and the drier will have to be changed.

INADEQUATE AIRFLOW TO CONDENSER

The condenser works best in front of the radiator with a large supply of fresh air. Abnormally high pressures will result from improper air flow. Check the air flow requirements by placing a large capacity fan in front of the condenser and running cool water over the surface. If the pressures drop significantly, this will indicate you need better air flow.

INCORRECT/INADEQUATE CONDENSER CAPACITY

Incorrect condenser capacity will cause abnormally high head pressures. A quick test that can be performed is to run cool water over the condenser while the system is operating. If the pressures decrease significantly, it is likely an air flow or capacity problem.

EXPANSION VALVE FAILURE

An expansion valve failure is generally caused by dirt or debris entering the system during assembly. If an expansion valve fails it will be indicated by abnormal gauge readings. A valve that is blocked will be indicated by high side that is unusually high, while the low side will be unusually low or may even go into a vacuum. A valve that is stuck open will be indicated by both the high and low pressures rising to unusually high readings, seeming to move forward equal readings on the gauges.

RESTRICTIONS IN THE SYSTEM

A restriction of the cooling system will cause abnormal readings on the gauges. A high side restriction (between the compressor and the drier inlet) will be indicated by the discharge gauges reading excessively high. These simple tests can be performed by a local shop and can help determine the extent of the systems problem.